Goor's Dutch Regiment 1704
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In passing, I mentioned the start of a new joint project. Well, the
project bears fruit already with the first regiment for the War of Spanish
Succession ...
Imperfect by Design
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Have you ever set up a breathtaking historical tabletop layout, only to
notice that your meticulously painted 28mm infantry regiments look like
they are ...
Get your kicks on A46
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Friday saw me board a train at King's Cross for the trip to Lincoln to stay
with the Elders (big sis and her husband). The plan was to use Imp City as
th...
Zomtober 2026 week 2 - more of the saaaaaaame
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Another Sunday in Zomtober, another pair of Mordheim zombies spruced up
after twenty-something years:
I know, I know, removing the head kills the zombie...
Romano-British tribal levy
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After a bit of a hiatus, here is the third shieldwall unit for my 10mm
Romano-British army, built for *Fantastic Battles*. I have tried to build
this unit...
All is safely gathered in.
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Autumn has finally begun to make its presence felt out here with a little
yellowing of the leaves and a well received morning chill when I venture
forth,...
The Final Alexandrian
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*A Headless Body Production*
*Venue*: Harve de Grace Community Center
*Event*: Cold Barrage 2026
*Theme*: US Nationals, 2nd Period
*Round*: 5
*Players*: P...
Introducing 'ScrapJacks' to PaulOG via Discord
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Hi All,
I hosted PaulOG for a game of 'ScrapJacks' over Discord the other day and
he's written up a terrific post-game write-up. Check it out!
Cheers!
...
The Awards for Challenge XVI
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*Like so many prizes, it's the anticipation of the opening that's so
exciting...*
Ahem. Speaking of prizes, welcome to the wrap-up of the 16th edition ...
Battle on the Border 1809
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Hi all,
After my last post about finishing the 28mm Bavarian's, I took them out for
a little battle with the Austrian Jagars. I am using Songs of Drums...
Midgard - Heroic Battles
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Short post about my favouritr wargaming rules for the moment, Midgard -
Heroic Battles by James Morris.
I am not totally objective as I been involved in...
Awrightey, I completed the three model kits I acquired of Super Mecha Champions models, and went about making some stat cards to use them in a game of Mecha Top.
Now, these mecha are in general smaller than a Gundam ranging between 6 to 10 meters, and not to high techy in most cases, so they are kind of like cheap grunt units with some added specials to make them unique.
Though I didn`t label them as Unique, in a game you can theoretically have 100 times the same mecha in play...
Please be forgivefull for the not always crisp outlining of the lettertypes and statlines, it was a Paint effort and I`m no graphical designer or such, just an old bloke with a slightly less older computer.
The first card I created was for Caramel, the cute and not so cuddly, cannon hoisting teddybear mecha. I tried to recreate the game feel by giving it two different types of long range guns, and some heavy plate for protection.
The second mecha stat card made was Arthur, one of the two starter options in the game and basically just a knight with a big sword.
The third mecha that came out in a kit is also the most expensive one points wise, as Hurricane, who can transform in an attack plane, is as such tech level 2 and with some expensive traits.
So that's the three models all statted out, and if I wanted to field the SMC team, it would cost me 1425 points for the mecha, leaving some playroom for pilots and skills to tinker around with and get to an 1800 standard game force.
One of these weeks I got to arrange a solo game and see how they fare!
The time has come to begin work on the third and final mini-kit I have for Super Mecha Champions, and that is the Hurricane.
Ingame transformable between plane and mecha, it is a top tier suit to play with, but I personally haven`t given it that much game time unless it was for quests so far.
The set comes with quite a nice amount of sprues, as could be seen in this unboxing video, and some stickers that are as always tossed aside.
Now, I must say that on first look of the design, I doubt this one would be able to stand on it's legs and carry the wing weights.
But of we go, and the body section is the first to be assembled. Now out of the three kits, this also is by far the fiddliest to put together, with lots of tiny pieces that you can`t force into the slots, like the antenna for example, to prevent snapping.
After that, the wing pods are on the plan. These take quite a bit of parts to put together.
But once you figure out the correct sequence, the mirrored second wing goes way faster.
That brings us to the legs. Now as you can imagine, those small feet are nowwhere going to carry the upper body and the bulky wing assemblies later on, hence why I got that base ready. I also didn`t attach the feet just yet, waiting for the model to be assembled and then I can still "wiggle" them a bit to fit it suitably.
With the legs assembled, it,s time to put together the whole mecha and add it on a base just to stand upright. Being rather fragile with all the little portrusions, I suggest filling of about a quarter of the balljoints and then glue the pieces in place though.
And then the mecha is completed. Definitly the most fidly one of the three kits, but now it's time to go painting and bring it better to life, even though the blue of the plastic isn't to shabby a representation of it's ingame blue colour.
First job is putting Vallejo's black on all the engine parts, exhausts and the likes, namely all the sections that will become dark grey in the end.
I also did the two layers of blue on the model, respectively Dark Blue and Heavy Blue, both from Vallejo, to do the dark blueish areas as well as the more vibrant, lighter blue areas.
So then we went to the smaller sections that needs to be done, and base colours where put on it for those as well. That meant that for the orange areas I used Vallejo Amaranth Red, Coat D'Arms Dark sand for the yellow section and Cold Grey from Vallejo for what will become the white lines. Only two light blue bands when it's finished aren't base layered yet, as those will start off from a blue that I will be using in the final layer of the main body.
So with those done, it is time to go in the second layer to start adding the contrast. I began with the grey sections first, using Dark Rubber from Vallejo.
Moving on to the biggest part of the model, the blue areas, the dark tone is done with Vallejo Imperial Blue, while for the more vibrant sections I opted for Hideous Blue from Coat D'Arms.
For the smaller colours, Vallejo Sun Yellow was used for the yellow, the orange got a layer of Orange Fire by Vallejo and the cold grey sections where done with Sky Grey from Vallejo as well.
That meant the second layer done, so let's move on to the third and final one, beginning with the grey areas receiving a final touch up with Necromancer Cloak from The Army Painter.
The blue tones where then finished off, with the darker sections getting a layer of Intense Blue and the lighter ones one of Magic Blue, both by Vallejo. The latter is also used now as the first coat of blue for the coils on the wings and the engine intakes.
For the smaller sections, I used the following colours, all from Vallejo: White for the markings, Moon Yellow and Heavy Orange for those respective areas, while the coils where finished with first Falcon Turquoise and then Electric Blue.
The model now completely painted, all that is needed is a layer of Matte Varnish from the AK range, and basing the mecha.
And there we have it, the third and final of the Super Mecha Champions line of mini-kits has been finished now. I sincerly hope they will start doing the other mecha from the game as well in this range, but I guess that is a case of wait and see...
So, with Caramel now finished bar basing, it is time to start building the second of the kits of the Super Mecha Series.
And that is Rom's knightly mecha, Arthur.
Containing three runners of parts, a sticker sheet and the instructions on the inside of the cardboard packing just like with Caramel.
So we start with first building the central torso. Normally, a sticker goes on the faceplate, but as I don`t like stickers at all, that will be painted afterwards.
As the two arms are then build, I opted for the version with the drawn sword instead of a closed hand, when the sword would then be mounted on the back of the model. The other arm incorporates the transparent cloak, which will be fun to paint around afterwards *not*.
Next on the assembly are the legs for the mecha. As I glue some of my parts (joints tend to loosen over the years), I first tried out some poses before deciding where to add some glue, and the position he will be placed in at the end when all is pieced together.
Now, with the body and all limbs ready, it is time to assemble him onto a base.
This makes him now ready to get painted. A predominantly white mecha, that means the biggest sections where base coated in Cold Grey from Vallejo.
Next, the other base sections where done with either Vallejo Black, or Vallejo Magic Blue.
And then came the hardest part. Arthur has a lot of gold detailing, not present on the model, so using a 000 brush these had to be added with Vallejo Tinny Tan for the base.
This wasn`t the simplest of painting jobs on the smooth plastic armour platings, but it turned out okay if you ask me. And in the second layer, I can start covering up some little things of those lines where needed, which is Sky Grey by Vallejo for all the parts that will become white.
That being done, it is time to do the other parts second layers, with Dark Rubber (Vallejo), Hawk Turquoise (Vallejo) for the blues and Brassy Brass (Vallejo) for the golds.
That making his second layer complete, it is time to start the touch ups in the third and final highlight. The first and main colour herefore is Vallejo's Dead White.
Then the other areas are lighted in, respectively with Electric Blue of Vallejo, Necromancer Cloak of Army Painter and Bright Gold by Coat D'Arms.
So that is the model painted, now to do the "for now" basing, as well as adding a coat of AK matte varnish to the model.
And so Arthur stands ready to take the battle to the enemy in MechaTop, as I`m working out a stat card for the game as well. But that is for a later post!